Pup Tents. Generally a pup-tent is the gold standard for G.I.s. Pup-tents were made of two halves (e.g. "shelter halves") and each soldier would carry one-half. When it was time to bivouac behind enemy lines, soldiers would find someone to bunk with and button each of their halves together.

Pre-war and WWII pup tents have black buttons. Post-war tents have button snaps--do not get the button-snap tent.

Pre-war and WWII pup tents used wooden tent stakes and wood poles that folded. Post-war poles are green and break apart into 3-separate pieces; the wartime and pre-war poles are hard to find so using post-war poles is OK (though if you can strip the paint to be wood, even better.) You can find reproduction poles on At The Front.

You can either find surplus WWII tents (dated 1941-1944), or purchase a reproduction.

Small Wall Tents. Small-wall tents are larger, and were reserved for NCOs. Originals and reproductions are difficult to find but are great for the room and space for camping.

Army Wool Blankets. Bring two; one for the ground to sleep on top of, and one to either cover a non-period sleeping bag or simply as an extra layer to sleep with. If you bring a winter overcoat, that doubles as a third blanket to keep you warm in cold weather.

WWII blankets have stitched edges, sometimes a white manufacturer tag (with a date), and sometimes with a 'U.S.' stencil that are outlined but not solid. Blankets come in shades of mustard-green to a grey-ish green, but do not purchase 'bright' green wool blankets as they tend to stick out.

M-1942 'Arctic' Sleeping Bag. The M1942 sleeping bag, though not standard issue to G.I.'s in the 35th Infantry, is great for camping in the field. It is made of down, has a U.S. stencil, and comes in marked sizes Small to Large (if you're 6'+, go for the Large!). Though technically issued to mountain troops, it's perfect for a period functional tentage as permissible.

M-1944 Wool Sleeping Bag. The M-1944 sleeping bag comes in two parts: a canvas green outer shell and a mustard-wool liner that fit into each other. Though technically late war and sporadically issued, it's perfect for a period functional tentage and permissible.

Intermediate Cold Weather Sleeping Bag. This is a post-war 1980s sleeping bag. Though not period correct, it blends in quite nicely with WWII equipment and blankets; if covered during the day, this is a great cheaper alternative if a M-1944 or M-1942 are hard to find. Though not period-correct, it is permissible if hidden well.

Modern Sleeping Bags. You want to bring your zero-rated down REI bright red sleeping bag? I get it; you paid good money to stay warm in the Himalayan Mountains. You can bring it, but it should be completely hidden under a blanket or M-1944 canvas shell when not in use. This is only permissible if you maintain awareness of your camp.

WWII Cots. The standard cot during WWII was the M-1938 Cot. It was made of plain unpainted wood, painted green metal parts, and army canvas in a shade of OD. All US-Army issue cots should have some service stamp on the legs, canvas, straps, or metal parts. If there are no stamps, it is most likely not an original WWII cot. 

Korean War Cots. You may find completely green army cots from the 50s or 60s; these are acceptable for field use. It would best if the wood was made plain again, with metal parts painted green, but not the end of the world. 

US Forest Service Cots. Because the government likes to use its surplus first, you may come across USFS wood cots painted green; these are acceptable for field use. It would best if the wood was made plain again, with metal parts painted green, but not the end of the world. 

US G.I. Aluminum Cots. These are definitely not period correct. However, it may be a cheaper alternative. If purchased, ensure that you can cover every inch of metal with a blanket so it cannot be seen. Aluminum G.I. cots are only permissible if completely covered.

New Canvas Covers. You can still purchase reproduction canvas covers for old frames, like from At The Front.

M-1941 Stove. Also known as the Coleman 520, this one-burner stove was issued to armored troops and frequently 'found' by G.I.s for use on the front lines. Legend has it G.I.s would keep them in captured German gas-mask cans since they were waterproof. They were used to keep guys warm in foxholes covered by a shelter half, and to heat up coffee in the morning.

These are somewhat hard to find but remarkably easy to restore with some elbow grease. You can find new-old parts from oldcolemanparts.com.

A war-time stove is perfect, though a civilian look-alike is permissible.

M-1942 Stove. This was a smaller version of the M-1941 stove, and is equally as useful. It was issued to mountain troops specifically since they were smaller. A war-time stove is perfect, though a civilian look-alike is permissible.

C-Rations. The C-Rations (the canned rations) were made for combat and used throughout the war from 1941 to 1945; that is, when a soldier was at the frontlines and could not be fed at a field kitchen, boxes of C-Rations would be taken to the front lines and passed out. C-Rations were intended to provide the basic nourishment needed to survive for one man, for one day, and included 6 metal cans: 3 B-Units and 3 M-Units. The six cans were intended to be packed into the M-1928 Haversack. 

B-Units had biscuits, sweets, and instant coffee (Biscuit-Units); M-Units were of meat and vegetables (Meat-Units). Each unit or can had different 'menus' so you wouldn't be eating the same exact meal . At the start of the war, only 3 varieties of M and B units were available; by the end there were at least 10 different meals for M-Units and 6 for B-Units.

Soldiers would stuff cans throughout their kit for food on the road when distances between the frontlines and rear service area was spaced out.

You can get reproduction cans at Frontline Rations; they are the highest quality reproduction outfit for WWII rations and are worth the money!

Bottom Line: C-Rations are great for early war and late war (1940-45).

D-Rations. The D-Ration was a survival ration; it was a solid brick of protein and chocolate, and was only issued in case of emergency when no other field ration was available.

You can get reproduction boxes at Frontline Rations; they are the highest quality reproduction outfit for WWII rations and are worth the money!

Bottom Line: D-Rations are great for early war and late war (1940-45).

K-Rations. Named after nutritionist Dr. Ancel Keys, the K-Ration was developed in 1941 as a lighter weight ration for airborne troops, though by November 1942 became standard issue. The ideas was that 3 boxes (Breakfast, Dinner, and Supper) would suffice for one man for one day. Each box was filled with a small can of food, biscuits, gum, sweets, smokes, matches, and powdered drink.

You can get reproduction boxes at Frontline Rations; they are the highest quality reproduction outfit for WWII rations and are worth the money!

Bottom Line: K-Rations are great for 1943 onwards.

10-in-One Ration. The 10-in-One Ration was a big crate intended to feed 10 men for one day, and was adopted in June of 1943. Each crate had two boxes each with 5 rations, containing breakfast and dinner units and various canned meats, vegetables, fruit, sweets, biscuits, and powdered drinks.

You can get reproduction boxes at Frontline Rations; they are the highest quality reproduction outfit for WWII rations and are worth the money!

Bottom Line: K-Rations are great for 1944 onwards.

Sources for Ration Descriptions. Enjames, Henri-Paul; translated by Philippe Charbonnier. Government Issue: U.S. Army European Theater of Operations Collector Guide. France: Histoire & Collections, 2004.  Pg 176-179.

Look-alike Rations. Can't afford nice ration cans? You can buy canned food and rip off the label and use that as a 'ration.' Not the best thing, but it gets the job done. 

You can purchase 1940s-ration-looking stuff (saltine crackers, glass-jarred jams, etc.), or even supplement with 'liberated' apples from a French village, or loaf of bread. There are sources online to print out WWII-period labels that you slap on canned food.

Cleaning Kits. You should have enough to field-strip and clean your rifle. 

I'm still researching this to put together a full period-cleaning kit, but I know there are cans and oilers!

Blank Adapters. Depending on what you have, there will be different tools to remove the blank adapter on your firearm. Bring these tools to every event so that your firearm may be inspected for safety and blank adapters tightened or adjusted to ensure safety.

• M1 Garand Adapter: https://www.columbusordnance.com/product/m1-garand-blank-adapter

• Carbine Adapter: https://www.90thidpg.us/Equipment/Articles/CarbineBFA/index.html

Blanks. Always order ahead and stock up! You can purchase blanks from:

• https://joeswansonsmotionpictureblanks.com/

• https://www.atlanticwallblanks.com/

• https://www.perfectshotllc.com/

• https://wolframblanks.com/ 

Each kind of blank has a different kind of 'charge' depending on the amount of powder added. 'Hot' blanks have more gunpowder (and are much louder) than more balanced blanks. It is best to use less hot blanks for older rifles since older rifles were not made to withstand today's gunpowder loads. Feel free to conact manufacturers for more info on what would best work for your rifle. Though no one is shooting real ammunition, blanks still work your rifle.